Begining the Trunkhose of Garishness– Circa 1600, NON HISTORICAL CONSTRUCTION

At some point last fall, my mother saw some late 16th century trunkhose, in a fairly sedate colour palette, with contrast panels. She semi-jokingly suggested that my dad would appreciate a pair. I volunteered to make them, and pointed out that they could get far more garish, whilst being historically keeping. I suggested some places to look for appropriate textiles. This resulted in the selection of a cyan, yellow, and magenta figured 1/8th inch plaid taffeta from Renaissance Fabrics as the outermost main fabric, with the underlayer in hot pink and bright orange figured silk also from Renaissance Fabrics as the underlayer, with their lionheart gold for the canions and waistband. These would then be lined in a rainbow striped linen from Graylines Linen, and interlined in a linen herringbone for appropriate poofyness (the extants largely use wool, but the silks are already pushing it for heat here.)

Outer fabrics and the inside rainbow lining
Close up of the fluorescent orange and pink

The specific style I chose is a hybrid of a few portraits, and the various patterned extants I have acsess to diagrams of (those in the new edition of PoF 3, and those in 17th Century Men’s Dress Patterns, 1600-1630), with a vague date range of late 1590s-early 1600s, for maximum garishness potential.

I began by doing a semi-mockup of the main portion of the hose in the linen interfacing, with the top and one leg gathered. Initially id made the top too small and the bottom too wide, but the second try worked quite well. I then used that pattern as the basis for the fluorescent silk panel, and modified it for the rainbow linen lining. I did not do a further mock up of the canions or waistband at this point.

I was not able to get decent pictures of the mockup before my gathering came out, so the photos for this project will start in the next article, which will cover the pre-embelishment construction.

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